Shibusawa Madoka (Fukagawa Mai), a Tokyo-based manga writer is on a trip to Kyoto after recently marrying the 14th-generation heir to a traditional folding-fan shop in the city. Determined to understand the exquisite essence of Kyoto, she sets out to write a comic essay about life in the city’s historic businesses and the centuries of tradition they embody. Along the way, she interviews her husband’s family and various local okami — female business proprietors — across town, accompanied by her loyal manga artist friend, Anzai Riko (Onodera Zuru).

Unfortunately, as an outsider, Madoka is unaware of Kyoto’s culture of honne (“true feelings”) and tatemae (“outward opinions”). Soon, her straightforward honesty, extreme love of Kyoto, and over- the-top efforts to protect and celebrate the city’s heritage find her under fire from angry locals.

Directed by Tominaga Masanori (Pumpkin and Mayonnaise, JFTFP19), this cynical comedy film uniquely reveals lesser-known sides of Kyoto and its people, who preserve “their own” traditions.